Creating Volume Fans
It is important to create proper fan spacing not only for overall look of your set but also for the weight distribution. You should have even spacing of the body and base.
Only ⅓ of the extension base should be closed making fluffy extension. If the base closes higher up you will have a chunky and heavy looking extension/set.
Narrow fans will create a more dense and dark look, perfect for this who want drama. Narrow fans are also going to give you blacker, denser looking sets and is ideal for strip lash and topline looks. Wide fans will create a more fluffy and messy look however they are very important as we use wide fans to fill areas with any gaps either due to shedding or damage from say a poor lash job, picking lashes, cutting etc.
Wide fans will create a more natural and fluffy look, also necessary to fill any gaps. It can take a little practice to create fans ALWAYS start by practicing 2D fans in 0.07 practicing over and over until you are consistent, than create 3D, than 4D etc. Really try to focus on PERFECT symmetry! You want even spaces between each extension to have a clean proper looking set. Once you have perfected 4D fans grab your 0.05 and start creating 5d fans until perfect over and over, than 6D, 7D.
STOP focusing on even spaces between each extension once you start creating 8D plus fans. You will spend countless minutes to create even spacing between each extension after this point and it will be very hard to consistently do. Once you get to 8D and higher fans we no longer worry about perfect spacing between each extension we START focusing on EVEN symmetry. You will have them more clustered together in an evenly displaced fan.
As you will see below the green lines indicate the dipping zones for adhesive. You must ensure you dip the entire stem into the glue HOWEVER, do not dip once the extensions start to open up or you will creat clumpy fans, the glue will run up and close your fans. Also ensure you do not have bubbles forming, just a nice clean deep dip.
Here you will see a nice fluffy open fan. Please notice the mandatory gap between the base of the fan and the lash line. You must ensure you leave room for the lash line incase of any swelling, allergies, etc. Ideally we can be a max of 0.5mm from the lash line however while learning please be 1-2mm away until you are confident and advanced.
There are many ways to make a volume fan
Using tweezers grab a chunk of extensions off the strip into the sweet spot of your tweezer and pull slowly towards you on the strip until the extensions are about 1-2mm left on the strip. Slowly rock/violin the tweezers to open the extensions into a symmetrical fan. Once fanned properly slowly pinch the fan and pull towards yourself.
Pick and pinch
Grab a chunk off the strip place the extensions between the pads of your fingers pinch the very base of the extensions as you let go with the tweezer and slowly pinch/rock until fan is perfected than gently grab with tweezers and apply.
Very easy to do when first learning. Grab a chunk and place on empty part of strip and then gently with your tweezer rock along the base of the extensions and watch the extensions pop open, gently grab and apply.
My go to! With a volume bubble grab a chunk of extensions, place on tape edge with a slight slam and watch pop open. Or you can place and drag the tweezer along the tips opening the fan than grab and apply.
Another method is to pull the extensions you desire on the strip towards you about half way than pull form tips to the side. The downside of this method is you have less grab room when picking up the fan.
Glue Dipping For Volume Fans
Volume requires less glue than classic as you have more points of contact and smaller extensions. You only need about 2 mm of glue for volume compared to 3mm for classic
Too much glue will cause the glue to wick up the fans closing the fan off completely or making a very stemmy/heavy fan. You will also need to press onto the natural lash after dipping to push the extensions to wrap around lash and also hold in place for about 3 seconds before releasing your tweezers.
You should always dip glue into the center of the bubble
Never drag glue as the top part is already starting to cure and you will also grab too much glue by dragging.
Also using too much glue will cause the glue to wick up and will close the fan.
You do not want stemmy, closed or heavy fans
Always place extensions 0.5mm-1mm away from the eyelid. There needs to be room for your eyelid to swell. Eyes swell naturally from crying, being over tired, allergies etc.
Volume is helpful with difficult lashes. While you still need to redirect unruly lashes volume will help fill any natural gaps. You may find you may need to apply the extension to the under part of the natural lash on curly naturals or you may even wrap the extension around the natural lash. Sometimes an unruly lash may not accept your fan on the top. You may need to redirect by applying to the under of natural lash and even to the side. As long as you wrap the extension you can redirect the natural lash with no consequence.