Determining Best Style
Even plane Both inner corner and outer corner are an even horizontal plane. Almond and Round eye shapes often lie on an even plane, Natural styling with the emphasis toward the outer middle of the eye. This draws attention up as well as outward.
Ascending plane The outer corner sits higher than the inner corner of the eye. a natural feline shape. Eyes on an ascending plane support greater emphasis toward the outer edge , Ideal Cat Eye styling.
Descending plane The outer corner sits lower than the inner corner of the eye. Eyes on a descending plane are “downturned eyes”, and best support emphasis in the middle of the eye. Emphasizing the mid-eye area draws attention away from the outer eye preventing eyes from appearing “droopy”.
Almond shape is the most common eye shape and are about twice as wide as they are high. They can be easily styled with any curl.
Round eyes are even in their width and height and this shape makes the eyes look surprised or big. it is best if b or c curl is used to play down the surprised look. Do not use a tight curl as it will only intensify the surprised eye look.
The exotic eye shape is the rare. It is more than twice as wide as it is high, and has a sultry appearance. Styling with C, D, L, M, L+ to open the eye and make it appear larger.
Wide set eyes when the distance between their eyes is greater than the length of one of their eyes. When styling wide-set eyes, keep the emphasis toward the inner eye. This will help balance their eye set by drawing attention inward and making their eyes appear closer together.
Narrow set eyes is when the distance between their eyes is less than the length of one eye. When styling close-set eyes, draw the emphasis outwards. By focusing attention nearer the outer eye, you help make their eyes appear farther apart and more proportionate.
Proportionate Eyes are approximately one eye length apart. When styling proportionate set eyes, you have a bit more freedom, but keeping it toward the outer middle of the eye is most complimentary.
To find the best eye map for each client there is a 100% way to success with face mapping
1- Hold marker against clients nose and align with nose
2- Move tip of marker as base presses against tip of nose and angle marker upwards to cross through pupil as they look directly ahead.
3- Mark that spot above the lash line for mapping reference likely near the bubble of the eyebrow
4- Do the same on other eye
Doing this will ensure symmetry even if eyes are different shape or size
Another method if you are completely unsure is to follow the natural map of clients natural lashes.
Mixing lash curls
Curliest extension always go on the underlayer to provide the lift of each row for textured set. However if you wish to create more dramatic and striplash like put curliest on the top layers.
Capping is helpful to fill natural gaps and are placed on the side of the natural lash to extend to gap area.
You can apply the extensions underneath the natural lash or to the side bypassing the excess natural curl.
For extremely straight lashes a l curl or l+ curl will adhere and lift easily.
For extremely tricky or very curly natural lashes you can also try to wrap the extension around or apply under the natural lashes to redirect growth as well as bypassing the excess natural curl.