This is going to be the most important step before you start lashing your client. For new sets and fills ensure that either your client or yourself has shampooed their lashes prior to service. Lash shampoo is explained to clients like this; It's just like the hair on our head after a few days we will get an oily build up, to remove these oils from our hair or our lashes we need to use a shampoo. Otherwise if we were to just rinse, it would not remove the oils.If you do not get the client to shampoo or she didn't shampoo well enough you will notice all the lashes you place slip off the natural lash, or she will call you in a couple days saying she's lost a bunch of extensions.The shampoo is going to come out foamy or soapy already, they only need to apply a bit to their fingertips then close the eye and massage in then rinse off. If the client experiences a bit of irritation from the shampoo next time they need to use less or rinse off better. The shampoo has a sterilizer in it to prevent and treat things like bacterial infections, and mites, its harmless and all natural.You should be able to sell a shampoo to every client that comes in for hygienic reasons, and also to keep the longevity of the extensions on for the client.If the client has normal skin she will want to shampoo every 3 days, if the client has oily skin she will want to shampoo every second day.
I do not use primer often. Personally I do not care for the idea of primer near clients eyes as it is very runny and almost always stings clients eyes. Primer used to be used for sanitizing working pallets so why are we using them near clients eyes in the first place? However primer can be necessary for certain clients such as very oily or those with consistent poor retentions even though you are doing a pre cleanse prior to all fills and sets.
To use primer:
The eyelashes should be clear of makeup and mascara, if not advise your client to go to the washroom and clean them thoroughly again, or do the shampoo yourself. They should use the lash shampoo. Remind them that this cuts into the application of the extensions should they or you have to spend that extra time cleaning off makeup..
Use 2 prep brushes to apply the primer, and only 1 drop on one prep brush is needed, pushing the product into the dry prep brush then squeeze the lashes gently through the prep brushes in an upward motion. This gives you a clean base to work with the adhesive and also removes any thing that may have been missed through the natural lashes, like makeup, eye protein, oil etc.Primer alone is not sufficient, so make sure the client has shampooed before you start lashing.While you are priming this is the time to look and see if both eyes have the same amount of lashes, if not start with the eye that has less natural lashes, if the clients lashes are the same you can choose which eye you want to start on first. The only time this changes is when the client comes in for a refill, you will then look for which eye has less lash extensions and start on that eye first. Next you will pull the synthetic lashes you will be using and you will grab a pallet and adhesive and begin the process of applying extensions.
Lash techs need to know at what percent of humidity the adhesive works at, so for instance your room can normally sit at 30% humidity, you would need to check your humidity meter to see what its at, if it was at 30% and our adhesive works at 55% then you would need to set your humidifier up and get it to 55% by your first client and watch the level throughout the session. Too low or too high the adhesive would not work.
My best advice is get to know your glue. Every glue is unique and can work differently in environments other than your own. My best results is watching my heat. If I need my glue to slow down or am experiencing pop offs I must lower my heat. If the glue is not drying quick enough I will increase my temperature by one degree.
While using professional grade lash adhesive, every glue has a humidity range and dry time depending on your adhesive. As well each glue prefers a certain temperature. Most glue performs well between 21-23 degrees celsius. Higher the heat the quicker your adhesive will dry and it can compromise retention.
Always make sure you store your glue far away from any windows and heat sources or you will essentially cook your glue ruining it. I always order or purchase glue away from high heat days. Store glue according to each glue requirement. You must dip your lash in and come out slowly so it does not bubble on the end and place it on the natural lash. Make sure you use a nano mister to flash cure the adhesive for the client. If your lashing a new set you will probably notice after an hour that the consistency changes to stringy or thicker. The adhesive should always be thin, so if you notice these changes its time to use some fresh adhesive.
It will be important to always shake the adhesive really well as it separates quickly, it should be a rich black colour, if it looks watery or grey on the top, you did not shake it well enough.
Make sure to tip it right upside down not on its side when you drop the adhesive otherwise the nozzle will start to build up with adhesive. Also make sure to burp your bottle and wipe nossle after every use.
The adhesive has a chemical reaction with cotton, so never clean up with a q-tip on your clients skin as it could set off a reaction. The reaction can consist of but not limited to chemical burns, smoke, or start a fire. If you get a spill on your client you can clean up with a prep brush those are safe to use, with a little bit of remover if needed. The adhesive or lash extensions should never ever touch the eyelids.
Please ensure you lash with an approved P95 organic vapour mask as we know some lash techs have developed allergic reactions by breathing in the adhesive while we work.
Adhesive can be very damaging to lungs. You wouldn’t huff glue in your spare time right?
Let's watch a video on proper glue use.
Remember to never swipe off your glue. If you are swiping glue onto the pads or pallet it is an indicator that you are using too much glue and it is causing bubbles to form.
Just dip your extension attest halfway in, nice and slow no bubbles and directly onto the natural lash.