is used to break the disulfide bonds in the hair. In the industry, there are two types of lift lotions: Acid and Alkaline.
is used to neutralize and reform the disulfide bonds in the hair, so it can permanently take up the new shape.
Understanding growth cycles
PHASE 1: ANAGEN (GROWTH) PHASE – BABY
The anagen is also called the growth phase. This is the phase when hairs are actively growing. Actively growing hair are also known as baby hairs. Hair grow for an average of 30-45 days.
PHASE 2: CATAGEN (TRANSITION) PHASE – TEENAGER
The catagen phase is also known as the transition phase. This is the phase when the hair stops growing and the hair follicle shrinks.
PHASE 3: TELOGEN (RESTING) PHASE – ADULT
The telogen phase is also known as the resting phase. This phase can last more than 100 days before the hair falls out and a new one begins to grow.
Lash Lifts only change the shape of the hair that Is processed , meaning it does not change the shape of the hair that grows out such as the babies. The lashes may appear unruly when they grow out.
It is recommended to lift every 6-8 weeks depending on the clients growth cycle and aftercare.
How to tell how much time to process?
So every client will vary. You may even find there may be a case where the clients lashes look really strong and thick however are on the delicate side and will respond very quickly to a lash lift system. For this reason the first time lifting each client should always be done cautiously.
So if ever in doubt drop to the lower setting for the processing time advice. Because there is a large variety in processing times based on each company you will need to explore how the system responds to each individually. For example: If the lift system says to use only 5 minutes the first time DONT BE BRAVE AND TRY LONGER REGARDLESS OF HOW THICK OR LONG THEIR NATURALS ARE. Stick to the advice of 5 minutes for first perm and see how the naturals react after that. If the clients lashes are frizzly or unruly you have overprocessed them. If that happens DO NOT REDO THE PERM THAT DAY! They must wait 4 weeks to avoid busting or ruining them further.
If the perm has NOT lifted than I suggest to personally contact the company who distributes that product to see if you are able to reprocess the same day for only HALF THE TIME however many products cannot allow that so it must be based on company advice.
Lets take a look at some different hair types so you may get a feel for an estimated guess at how long to perm hair.
This is a very thin and sparse lash line. For this type of client you would do the LOWEST amount of recommended time. In fact I may likely remove 30 seconds to 1 minute less of the lowest set time to be on the cautious side to prevent damage.
This is a normal lash line. Likely has many baby lashes. This is a fairly average length and thickness. For this client I would process for normal/average processing time.
This is a longer and thick/medium lash line. For this client I would process for medium/thick processing time.
This is a very thick and long lash line. There is a wide variety of lengths throughout this lash line. I would process for the thick/very thick setting.