When starting an appointment you should always start off with marking your map. You can do this by directly drawing on the pad or you can also map by applying the extensions to the natural lash in correct area creating a border to follow.  It important to know your eye shapes and eye planes to help choose the best eyelash map per each client.  You may have a client who comes in wanting a cat eye and whom also has a downset or wide set eyes.  Cat eye will only enhance those features in a negative way.  You can modify the cat eye to flatter these eye shapes by modifying the set.  We will go over different eye shapes and planes.                                  

If a client wants a natural yet beautiful and voluminous set the shorter extensions should be the under layer and if the client has a 3rd layer be also the last layer.

If the client wants a perfect topline lash look than the longest layer would go on the underlayer and shortest extensions on the top layer.  Middle layers are always your main lash map. However you need to lash map all layers.



Texture always lays underneath that is why a tape back method is the best way to access the underneath.  Each client will have 2 to 4 rows of natural eyelashes.

When applying the shortest extensions to the underlayer it helps to lift the eyes upward giving an instant lift and fluff to volume sets.

Always have 3 to 4 different lengths for texturizing.

Always texturize in a similar pattern to your style, example:

If my set was 9,10,11,12,13

My texture would be 7,8,9,10,

I would do my tape back and put 7,8,9,10, across my style map, do a tape release to get to the next row of lashes and do the same, than i would release tape and make my set in the main lengths of the 9,10,11,12,13

While doing tape back to not lash 100% of each bottom layer. Only do about 50% as you want your main lengths on each layer as well

While texturising you never want to be more than 1 mm length higher than the main map, example your inner corner is mapped for a 9 than you do not want to texturize higher than a 10mm.

Always start with your emphasis point (your longest section in the map) fill until 80% coverage then start blending out.  It is important to switch back and forth to eyes to ensure both eyes are symmetrical incase of time shortage or time limit.  I suggest doing inner immediately after emphasis point as the inner is always a struggle when first starting volume lashing.  Inner eyes make the set so do not cut corners when getting to this area, fight through the struggle!  You will thank yourself one day.  There are many lash techs who struggle and than leave the inner eyes robbing the beauty of the set.

Topline Sets

Topline looks are one of the hardest looks to achieve! They are absolutely beautiful and skilled looks that not everyone can achieve. If you are looking to "get outside the box" with your lash services this is one style that is a must to achieve to enhance your skill and visual appeal. This WILL take much time and practice, you will be one of few who can achieve a proper topline if you focus on practicing each day you lash.

I will show you a photo below of perfect topline, even here you will see I have much areas of improvement ad I look forward to gaining more skill every time I practice. To achieve perfect topline you MUST work in layers. It sounds simple but trust me, getting to know how the layers sit on each person takes a lot of practice!

However simple trick is Longest length on the BOTTOM layer, Next layers is shorter length, top layer is shortest length. Now if you have more than 3 layers just remember to decrease the length for each layer. 

For example: If the longest length throughout your set at say the pupil point is an 11mm than your bottom layer would be 11mm, he next layer would be 10mm, than the highest layer (closest to you) would be 9mm.

Learning to see which hair is on what layer is the trickiest part. It is such an intricate set because you essentially have 3 plus maps for each individual mapping zone across each eye. So ALWAYS  map on your pad so you do not lose track.

Typically with a genuine Russian Volume topline set the minimum starting length is a 5mm up to 11mm and can be done in any style while practicing the topline look.


Start by doing a tapeback. REMEMBER TO DETACK YOUR TAPE really well otherwise it will attach too strongly to the natural lash and rip off the extensions already placed.

very carefully expose the bottom layer of natural lashes and proceed to lash in the longest length of that section. Once done this layer than you expose the next and lash that layer in one length shorter. Do this layer by layer. REMEMBER each mapped section of the eye will require multiple decreases and increases in lengths based on the section.

If you like you can also tape down each layer ono the pad once completed as in the picture, this is not a must but can be helpful for some to work easier in layers.


Expose the next layer again reducing length based on the section you are in.


Now expose the last (top) layer and proceed to lash in your shortest length based on the section you are in


Topline Look

Striplash Styling

Striplash look is very fun and becoming very popular! This can be easily achieved and follows very similar to topline look if you like a clean look. This can also be achieved in a more soft texture look as you are simply applying strategically placed "spikes". These spikes are created by using CLOSED fans aka a small chunk example 3 or 4 extensions grabbed in a closed chunk and placed as you would a classic lash. Make sure each trip is exactly the same location on each eye otherwise you will have 2 very different eyes. Here I have done a simple texture set with spikes to create a more subtle strip lash look.

Ensure spikes are evenly spaced
Always start by placing the spikes first, this will ensure symmetry with each eye.
Spikes must be placed on the top layer only.

Ensure spikes have an even base, no loose or crossed extensions.

Always make sure your spikes are curlier than the main body of extensions, this ensures the flick of the strip to give drama.


You could apply C curl to bottom layer

CC to middle layers

D to top layer & spikes


Style Cheat Sheets

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